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Post by aussieguy on Feb 1, 2017 15:35:45 GMT -5
test hole for transom rot I guess using injection epoxy is out of the question
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Post by Mackerelman on Feb 1, 2017 21:00:12 GMT -5
Looks to Me like You may need some more Fiberglass for the Boat.
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Post by aussieguy on Feb 9, 2017 8:12:34 GMT -5
been cutting out all the rot... wow the water really gets in and stays there water was coming in from where some one drilled and attached the transom mount transducer and speed sensor plus some from a bad floor install / repair
got all the cutting and grinding done and now itch like crazy now I remember why I hate working on fiberglass
spend hours last night using sticky tape on my arms I think I need a full body wax
so now the re-build can start
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Post by Mackerelman on Feb 9, 2017 8:17:59 GMT -5
Don't forget to Use the Good Caulk !
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Post by fishingmagician on Feb 9, 2017 9:16:37 GMT -5
Yes MM is right, 5200 is the best caulk for boats, expensive but well worth it, all screws and bolt holes should be sealed above and below the water line, if you are going to rebuild a transom, do it once and do it right!
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Post by snookninja on Feb 9, 2017 10:12:49 GMT -5
5200 Warning, if you use it good luck with getting it off. When it cures it almost indestructible. Use it only as a permanent solution. Go with 3m marine silicon if you need to access the area or using around screws/hatches.
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Post by aussieguy on Feb 9, 2017 13:44:57 GMT -5
removing the speed sensor altogether ....... GPS is better
any hole for the transducer will be blind drilled way oversized then filled with epoxy.... when the epoxy is dry, drill pilot hole into the epoxy for mounting the transducer
same goes for the out-drive mounting bolts
then the big funny shaped hole for the drive will be sealed with extra thin epoxy to saturate the the plywood then a minumim of 3 coats of std epoxy
before the ply is installed will be giving it a few coats of epoxy too
water will never get to the transom ply cause I am NOT... repeat NOT NEVER EVER AGAIN grinding out a transom
BTW therapy is working each day getting less and less aches and pains cause I am stretching and bending in ways I never thought possible
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Post by aussieguy on Feb 13, 2017 9:25:51 GMT -5
everything cut out and leaving it to thoroughly dry, using wet/dry vac to blow air into boat to assist in drying
bought the new plywood and will begin assembly in a few days.
Mrs AG says I have to do some more repairs on the house before I can do more on the boat that's Blackmail !!!!
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Post by Mackerelman on Feb 13, 2017 9:33:24 GMT -5
everything cut out and leaving it to thoroughly dry, using wet/dry vac to blow air into boat to assist in drying bought the new plywood and will begin assembly in a few days. Mrs AG says I have to do some more repairs on the house before I can do more on the boat that's Blackmail !!!! Blackmail. That is Usually how it Works ! It is the same way at My Place. And I am not even Married to Her. "You are not going Fishing until the Dishes are done & the Rugs are Vacuumed and We have Groceries in the Fridge !" & that is how it usually works.
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Post by aussieguy on Mar 23, 2017 7:20:52 GMT -5
Finished the house repairs so I was able to get back to the boat this week
Was going to leave a small section of the original transom in place as It looked solid but decided I should take it out.... It was awkward because the steering cable and gas filler hose are in the way
after much sweat and cursing it is all out good choice to take it out .... even though I thought it was good there was a lot of water and some rot in the ply
if anyone wants to know .... how to grind out a ply transom I used a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder with a combination of wheels plus a standard drill
using the drill and a small Dremil 1/8 straight shank cutter to slice away fiber glass panels floor and stingers etc these are good as they can get into corners but they are brittle, don't use a lot of pressure (broke 2 of em) could have used a reciprocating saw but when you get to corners it can be nasty
the grinding wheels I got from harbor freight HALF the price of the big box hardware stores they call them "FLAP DISKS" 36 grit and they remove wood and fiberglass pretty fast except if the wood is wet , if you hit a damp spot the disk clogs up.
so before grinding I removed as much wet/rotten wood as possible with a wood chisel and a drill 1/2 inch drill bit acts a power chisel and knocks off loose stuff also good for removing the flotation foam after removing as much as possible allowed it to dry for a day or two before grinding
lashed out and bought a painter overalls for this lot of grinding.. it sure kept the fiberglass itch away $8.00 and throw them away ... Mrs AG won't be able to complain about me washing fiberglass dusty clothes in her new washer
made a template out of thick paper , today's job will be to start cutting the new ply and test fitting
PS if anyone is going to do same painting the above flap disks are great for removing old flaking paint don't waste yer time and money on those flat sand paper sticky disks that last 5 minutes
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Post by aussieguy on Apr 23, 2017 6:25:28 GMT -5
almost finished the fiberglass work.
transom and stringers are glued in and the first round of glass is applied
today will apply the last few bits of glass and repair the section of floor I had to cut out.
I thought grinding was a pain... for the itch working with new mat is worse. feels like someone is throwing darts at me!
not going to paint the transom... will leave it bare the motor cover and rear seats hide it anyways that way if any water starts seeping into the transom will be able to see it!
found a good local supplier for fiberglass and resins Fiberglass Coatings Inc just off US19 and 44th street. St Pete. they carry big selection of glass, resins fillers etc + some good advice for novice. Their prices are reasonable and you can buy in the sizes you need.
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Post by aussieguy on May 2, 2017 7:03:21 GMT -5
so off to the doctor I went had a allergic reaction to either the fiberglass / resin or the cortisone cream I was using for the itch
nothing too serious , just my throat swelling closed eeeeeeeeeeeeek
you know the spot where if you put your finger down your throat you gag and wretch mine was so swollen if I tried to clear my throat or just try and get enough saliva for the dry mouth I would wretch not a pretty sight seeing I had just had breakfast
doc said I need a steroid shot... said to Mrs AG they better not want to put that in me BUTT nurse said .... pull down ya trousers and lean over ....
aw crap!
surprisingly didn't feel a thing when she jabbed me 5 minutes later ...... felt like a donkey had kicked me
10 minutes later .... change that to a Clydesdale
Mrs AG.... did you fart? Me .... NO it was the horse Mrs AG ... what? Me .... The horse that kicked me in the butt must have crapped in the corner too Mrs AG ... Oh glad you cleared that up cause I was about to call the nurse, thought you had gone crazy
so within an hour throat had cleared up pretty noticeably by the afternoon just about all gone whewwwww
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Post by Mackerelman on May 2, 2017 7:15:25 GMT -5
Now, You've done it ! I have seen that before. Stop Inhaling the Fumes off of the Fiberglass. It can cause Melanoma Cancer & Throat Cancer. You can get Melanoma Cancer from Sanding Drywall also. My Middle Brother Died from that. He sanded both without any Gear. Always Wear an Eye Goggles or Mask & a Breathing Apparatus when sanding Fiberglass.
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Post by aussieguy on Jun 4, 2017 10:47:12 GMT -5
so work has stalled again due to house repairs and a sore back Mrs AG's daughter and her hubby had been living with us for a year, they finally moved out. There is a God!
Now I got my garage back and before putting everything in order I needed to do some ceiling repairs. 3 days later no more holes...
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Post by aussieguy on Jul 8, 2017 4:33:01 GMT -5
yes dear... I finished painting the lounge room yes dear... I fixed that ceiling damage from the leak in the AC pan yes dear... I mowed the lawn, repaired the fly screens can I play on the boat now?
This humidity is crazy, work 10 minutes and I am saturated plus the mosquito's are out for blood this year
Painted the bilge and transom repair , nice white color to show off any dirt/crud
Started work on the outside of the transom filling unused holes and getting ready to paint same time will fix any gouges / scrapes on the hull.
had to straighten the boat out on the trailer it was sitting pretty crooked, couldn't get at a the bottom of the transom/keel
would have been nice if I could have just launched it but that big funny shaped hole in the transom made putting it in the water a bit iffy
Got the boat off the trailer and sitting on cinder blocks, so I can line up the trailer correctly use crow bars to scoot the trailer sideways bump the boat and watch it drop off the back blocks OOOPS lucky I still had the trailer under there
Take 2... place cinder blocks LEVEL and even Jack up boat and use 'come along' to gently move trailer sideways Much better...
had to re-position the bunks to the correct place under the boat at the same time replaced the rusted out brackets and U bolts plus the rear bunks and carpet and then added a set of front bunks
NOTE... to anyone replacing bunks. do not bolt / screw mounting plates onto the carpet. the carpet stays wet for a long time. Nice salty water just sitting there eating away the hardware. Cut away the carpet where the brackets go........ and mount the hardware directly on the wood!
new keel rollers are on order ...... but they can wait till I have filled and painted all the keel scrapes
Must say for a 30 year old trailer this one has NO rust on the frame... just the accessories and the attachment brackets .
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gnome
Rod Polisher
Feeding hungry fish, one shrimp at a time, since 1959
Posts: 159
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Post by gnome on Jul 8, 2017 8:10:11 GMT -5
yes dear... I finished painting the lounge room yes dear... I fixed that ceiling damage from the leak in the AC pan yes dear... I mowed the lawn, repaired the fly screens can I play on the boat now? *1 This humidity is crazy, work 10 minutes and I am saturated plus the mosquito's are out for blood this year Painted the bilge and transom repair , nice white color to show off any dirt/crud Started work on the outside of the transom filling unused holes and getting ready to paint same time will fix any gouges / scrapes on the hull. had to straighten the boat out on the trailer it was sitting pretty crooked, couldn't get at a the bottom of the transom/keel would have been nice if I could have just launched it but that big funny shaped hole in the transom made putting it in the water a bit iffy Got the boat off the trailer and sitting on cinder blocks, so I can line up the trailer correctly use crow bars to scoot the trailer sideways bump the boat and watch it drop off the back blocks OOOPS lucky I still had the trailer under there Take 2... place cinder blocks LEVEL and even Jack up boat and use 'come along' to gently move trailer sideways Much better... had to re-position the bunks to the correct place under the boat at the same time replaced the rusted out brackets and U bolts plus the rear bunks and carpet and then added a set of front bunks NOTE... to anyone replacing bunks. do not bolt / screw mounting plates onto the carpet. the carpet stays wet for a long time .*2 Nice salty water just sitting there eating away the hardware. Cut away the carpet where the brackets go........ and mount the hardware directly on the wood! new keel rollers are on order ...... but they can wait till I have filled and painted all the keel scrapes Must say for a 30 year old trailer this one has NO rust on the frame... *3 just the accessories and the attachment brackets . Awesome jog AG! *1 For mosquitos, get a bottle of cheap store brand listerine type mouth wash and a small spray bottle. The mouth wash will repel 'skeeters for about 15-20 min, and you smell good too. It doen't last long( lasts as long as I want to be outside ), but its cheap, and doesn't feel sticky like deet. *2 Stainless hardware is spendy, but in the long run, it is money well spent. *3 For every where you have exposed threads, spray them with a can of rustolium cold galvanize.
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Post by aussieguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:56:07 GMT -5
work has progressed slowly, rain and humidity is just making things so difficult
transom (outside) got all holes filled sanded and painted (3 coats) transom mount for the out-drive, new rope seal , stainless mounting nuts and painted some spots where it was beginning to corrode
needed a drain plug, and went to the local West marine. they would sell me the brass plug by itself for $24 OR for $11 could buy the plug and the fitting? so now I got a nice shinny new fitting on the boat as well.
Opened up the gas tank at the hole for the gas gauge sender unit where is my lighter ... it's dark in there OK... I'm kidding, used the flashlight instead
It looks really clean in there I was expecting a mess cause it's has been sitting for a few years No flakes of varnish and very few dirt particles But there is about 10 gallons of very old smelly gas in there. Siphoned off sample from the bottom couldn't find any water. removed about 6 gallons so far, burning it up in my 2 cars and mower, put in about 2 gallons of old gas at a time ..... then filling up the tank. So far both cars haven't missed a beat. will take out the rest of the old gas just beore I install the motor.
Will probably add a second fuel filter to the boat for a while... just in case. if any crud does come out of the tank will be easy to change out that filter with just a screwdriver
transom mount , tilt motor, steering and blower are all bolted back into the boat yipeeee things are actually going in !
inventoried what motor parts I have scrounged up. results .... 350 roller block with Vortec heads should be good for just under 300hp
BUT I only had a iron non Vortec intake + Rochester 4 barrel carb from my old 305
Vortec intakes are about $400 new, so have been searching for a good used one with very little results finally found one in Fort Meyers , but the guy could not find any casting numbers (probably a Chinese knock off) Was going to drive down there and check it out last Sunday.
But on Saturday .... had to clean up my parts junk pile. Was given a crapped out Volvo 350 a long time ago, took all the parts off, and most were tossed into the pile.
Guess what I found .... a Vortec intake + Holley 4 barrel, I threw it in there cause it looked so crappy manifold had some corrosion from a water leak , The Holley really looked bad. One of the float bowls literally fell apart. after a good cleanup the manifold was salvageable , JB Weld on the areas that had some corrosion + a better gasket should stop any future leaks
Tinkered with the Holley, it cleaned up OK found that I can buy a new float bowl for about $40 + a rebuild Kit for another $30
ordered bearings, rings and other stuff for the motor they have been arriving each day.. BUT the cam bearings which I need to put in first...... are being shipped from TX Can anyone say Harvey! They were suppose to have been shipped on Thursday hope they made it out?
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Post by aussieguy on Sept 21, 2017 8:17:07 GMT -5
All the engine parts arrived .... but Irma kinda put a hold on working on the motor
Since Irma left... washed and blew out the block with compressed air.
I installed the new cam bearings , never done them before and I only ruined 2, had to buy another whole set (Advanced Auto) cause they don't sell them individually. ended up buying a cheap install tool which lasted just long enough to do the job Cam shaft now in place.
new freeze plugs (brass) and oil gallery plugs installed ... but 2 of the oil gallery plugs I needed were 9/16" apparently the block is a Vortec truck block made in Mexico and there are slight differences luckily Napa had the plugs
Main bearings and crank installed, crank got a bit of a polish to remove tiny grooves. Checked oil clearance it's just on the upper limit, will have to run light weight oil Crank spins in the block real easy.. can use my pinky finger to spin it
Pistons... all cleaned up ready to install... Ohhhh shoot rings won't fit closer examination found pistons were upgraded.. not stock no one local sells the rings have to wait for them to arrive from Atlanta
The joys/pitfalls of assembling a motor that you don't know !
But in the end will all be worth it. spent about 600.00 in parts bearings, rings gasket set, etc
+ a lot of extras that I didn't really plan on
new float bowl and overhaul kit for the carb (gonna use the Holley)
new set of roller lifters old ones had some rust on the rollers + some were sticky. Opened a couple of the sticky ones and found a lot of crap inside apparently oil filters don't catch all the gunk in the oil?
new push rods .... I didn't have any for a vortec roller block, they are shorter than normal flat lifter
Improved vortec intake manifold gasket... the stock ones have a tendency to leak water
new oil pump they are cheap and I figured why not
new timing chain and sprockets
Anyone following this post and thinking "I could do this too". All internal engine parts were bought from automotive suppliers ... Don't fall into the MARINE GRADE trap.
I saw an advert on Craig's list for "Marine" heads listed at twice the value of automotive heads.. just for fun I called and asked What is "Marine" on these heads the answer.... UMMM AHHH OHHH bigger springs Stainless valves?
I plan on adding fresh water (antifreeze) cooling and there is nothing MARINE, I need other than making sure the camshaft won't allow water to be sucked into the motor. Truck and RV cams are nearly identical to Marine cams
If no fresh water cooling the only internal engine mod needed, is to make sure the head gasket is either stainless steel or the laminated type
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Post by aussieguy on Oct 9, 2017 8:25:49 GMT -5
assembled the crank and pistons in the garage then put motor and assembly stand into the boat would have been too heavy for me to drag the motor over to the boat if I built it all in the garage use a piece of plywood to protect the floor and to give me a level work area (just knew those hurricane shutters would come in handy one day) this weekend got the heads, timing gear, roller tappets, oil pump and baffle all in place setting the push rod lash is causing a bit of a concern? too many different opinions on how it should be done starting to look like a real motor again, of course the gremlins are always lurking have to move and plug up , a water temp sending unit from a head, my exhaust manifold won't fit can't get the LONGGGGG exhaust studs off my old heads either
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Post by Mackerelman on Oct 9, 2017 15:40:07 GMT -5
Aren't You done with that Boat Yet ? The Grouper & the Kings are going to get away.
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Post by aussieguy on Oct 9, 2017 17:45:43 GMT -5
you keep the storms away... and convince Mrs Aussieguy to open the purse string and you can have first ride in the boat
PS... first passenger has to know how to paddle a 20footer
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Post by Mackerelman on Oct 9, 2017 21:06:38 GMT -5
you keep the storms away... and convince Mrs Aussieguy to open the purse string and you can have first ride in the boat PS... first passenger has to know how to paddle a 20footer I am not going to get between & the Mrs. I would rather deal with Your Daughter. Maybe she could give us a little help with the Mrs. I know how to paddle.
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Post by aussieguy on Oct 14, 2017 17:09:14 GMT -5
so tomorrow is my birthday.... don't send presents just put money into paypal instead my present to me...... was going to try and start up the motor tomorrow today's plan was to finish the oilpan, intake, carb, starter motor etc motor was upside down and I had just tightened up the oilpan and noticed........ a pile of sandy stuff under the motor no way could that be casting sand? hhhhmm closer exam showed fibers mixed in it was one of them mud wasps giving me a little present I nice old nest, right down in one of the intakes on a head farkkkkk excuse the french, how did I miss that ...(I thought) I'd cleaned and blew out the heads pretty thoroughly decided the best thing to do was to pull that head off... who knows where that sand got into YUP... wise choice found quite a bit of sand on top of number 4 piston off comes the oilpan and piston pulled out to be cleaned got it all cleaned and put back together again.... stood back and started patting myself on the back GOOD JOB! ummm why is the oil baffle and oilpump bolt still in the parts bin?? ooops I'm getting too old for this off comes the oilpan again so now I am back to where I started this morning..... just one of those days! PS ..... don't ask age , enough to know I'm catching up to MackMan
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Post by salmonslammer on Oct 14, 2017 18:49:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the good read! Weve all been there before... just comes with owning a boat!
Happy Birthday! Hope ya get er fired up..Thats a huge milestone!
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Post by Mackerelman on Oct 15, 2017 11:42:24 GMT -5
Aussieguy:First Off, HAPPY BIRTHDAY to YOU ! Yeah just because I am a few Years older than You, that don't mean You have to rub it in. I am just a few years older and more experienced more in Fishing than You. LOL Just have a Happy Birthday and Enjoy it like I do every year when My Birthday comes around ! And Get that Boat completed ! The Fish are getting away.
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Post by aussieguy on Oct 28, 2017 7:08:53 GMT -5
so all the outside bits of the motor are getting put on
flywheel was a bit rusty cleaned up good BUT the starter ring gear was toast never changed a ring gear before and had no oxy torch used my trusty 4 inch angle grinder to grind down one section of the teeth until it was real thin and weak then used hammer and drift to knock it off... cleaned it up with some elbow grease and sandpaper
now to install the new ring gear you must HEAT it up. Mmaybe a cheap propane torch would get it hot enough? wait a minute... it's about the size of a pizza Mrs AG is at work use the oven? baked at 500 for an hour plus put the flywheel in the freezer
ring gear dropped in place real easy... you only get one go at doing it cause it cools real quick
dropped motor into place... and aligned it with the outdrive
no provision for a mechanical fuel pump on my block... checked the parts pile and found a Volvo electric pump, mounting brackets and fuel/water filter, bought a new filter and everything bolted up in place real nice except my original fuel line is now 6 inches too short
fark.. they want 7.00 a foot for fuel lines. searched some more in the parts pile and found the Volvo fuel line fits like a charm even has molded in curves at the right places looks pretty new too!
starter , alternator, power steering, water pump, manifolds, risers are all in place just need put on the carburetor when...
Mrs AG gets rushed to the hospital from work hmmmmm....wondered why she hadn't got home yet
Yes she will be fine thanks for wondering...
it's an ongoing problem that's been around a few years she works for Baycare and had 4 doctors present when it flared up again she gets to do all the exciting stuff ... ambulance ride with sirens
Impeccable timing Mrs AG...... sheeze doubt I will get a chance this weekend to do any more on the boat better go up and visit, she'll be in for a few days.
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Post by aussieguy on Nov 23, 2017 7:18:03 GMT -5
the Vortec intake manifold had no provision to mount the throttle. Plus the shift cable bracket's mounting holes didn't line up so had to fabricate / modify the brackets, grrrrrrrr
spent a a day trying to work out the wiring for the alternator. it didn't appear to have the same terminals as the original Must be one of those newer self exciting one pole models .......... GRRRRRRRRRR ..... found the terminals hidden by the water hoses (oooopsie)
the rest of the wiring is now sorted out, that was a pain cause I didn't pull the wiring apart and had no idea where stuff connected to. Plus had to work out how to connect the electric fuel pump (original motor had a mechanical pump)
everything was now ready to try and turn over the motor (disconnected the coil so it won't start) Starter motor kicked once then crapped out !!!
removed the wiring from the starter then hot wired it to the battery and confirmed it was toast. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Getting that starter out was a real pain in the you know what. absolutely no room to turn a wrench, ended up lifting the motor a few inches to get some clearance. But still had to be a contortionist to reach the bolts
I have two starter motors and had previously taken them to Advanced Auto to be checked ... waited nearly an hour cause customers kept walking in the door starter one was OK (ish)...... a bit noisy but that may be because it has not been used for years. cleanup and a bit of lube recommended
Number 2 starter appeared DEAD but I thought they ware a bit sloppy in connecting it up to their testing machine
Now that I had bought a battery.... I looked closer at the supposedly dead starter. all the terminals were covered in that white corrosion powdery stuff , a wire brush and sand paper fixed that. connected it to the battery and it spun like a champ. Nice and quiet too and an added bonus it was one of them newer smaller high torque ones, which was so much easier to bolt into place
Turned the key......... it was so quiet had to look twice to see if the motor was actually turning over
Today is turkey day and if time and the weather permits will add gas and see if it fires up
Happy Thanks Giving to all ...
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Post by Mackerelman on Nov 23, 2017 8:20:54 GMT -5
Put Some Grease on those Battery Terminals to keep the Corrosion away.
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Post by eaglesfanguy on Nov 23, 2017 22:23:56 GMT -5
Got dang you have some serious mechanical skills.Love reading your updates, and wish the best on completing this thing. She is going to be a beast once your done. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. Happy thanksgiving to you to Bob. Take care all.
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Post by Mackerelman on Nov 24, 2017 11:21:19 GMT -5
Got dang you have some serious mechanical skills.Love reading your updates, and wish the best on completing this thing. She is going to be a beast once your done. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. Happy thanksgiving to you to Bob. Take care all. Same to You Eaglesfanguy, & may Your Team Win the Superbowl.
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