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Post by havetofish on Apr 29, 2008 10:59:03 GMT -5
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Post by eaglesfanguy on Jul 21, 2008 0:04:24 GMT -5
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Post by estreetbrat on Aug 4, 2008 19:20:01 GMT -5
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Post by goindeep on Apr 3, 2010 0:15:45 GMT -5
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Post by bill jacques on Apr 10, 2010 8:35:52 GMT -5
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Post by tears143 on Jan 12, 2016 20:53:35 GMT -5
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Post by tears143 on Mar 7, 2016 19:19:25 GMT -5
Pompano Fishing with jigs
As you guy know, I have devoted two years to learn how to jig for these guys in Central West... mostly at skyway. Cost me a good amount of money on the jigs and a lot of time. Here's what I found...
Equipment:
6' light weight rod pair with a 2-3k reel. 10-20lbs bright color braid. leader 20-40lbs. jigging gloves
Remember you are fishing structure, they might pull you in and you never know what'll you hook with those jigs. (Cobia, Permit, big Jacks, Tarpoons... etc)
Jigs?
Ball jigs, bananas jigs + teaser (doc goofy or silly willy)
color?
Doesn't really matter much... I caught them with no color before because the paint chipped off. But the hot color are... yellow, white, pink, and green.
Best time?
Morning hours, sunrise till about 11-12pm. Usually this will be your best bet but you never know. The only season that I don't catch pompano at the bridges and passes are in the winter. I guess this is the time they migrate down the coast in search of warmer water. So you can catch them almost year round. You also have another good chance in the evening hours before sunset. They seems to bite best morning hours and then second best evening hours before sunset.
Incoming/Outgoing?
I don't think it matter, best to have some moving tide, not too strong and not too weak. Don't get me wrong but I have caught them in all sort of tide but best are moving tide... not too hard and not too weak. Some places might be better for incoming and other places are better for outgoing. A lot of people like to fish South Skyway Fishing Pier near the troll booth for pompano but most bridges hold them. Usually an hour before slack time is when I get the most bite and that's usually when the flow is perfect for me as well...
Season?
From Spring(March) time to the end of Fall(Nov). They are much harder to find in the winter but you can still find them.
Technique?
The jigs have to touch the bottom before you jig it up. I know there are a few people that got lucky and caught a good amount of pompano when their jig never hit the bottom. You can press your luck if you want but if you want to increase your chance of getting a bite, the jig must hit the bottom and then you jig it up. You can do either a fast motion or just a light lift with the jig, both works. If you drop the jig down and it drift under you... you'll have to cast it out and pick up the slack then jig it and repeat. If you drop the jig and it moves away from you, then let it stink to the bottom and then jig it. Let out line as needed so it does not interfere with the jig swimming freely to the bottom. Continue until you think it's too far away. All bridges have different flow speed and different section of the bridges have different flow. Match the weight of your jig to the flow. If you are snagging too much, your weight is too heavy and if you are always in mid or top column jigging, your weight is too light. If it's too light and you don't have any other jig, either try closer to shore where the flow is slower or find some eddy where the water flow slower like behind a pilling. If you fish a bridge as often enough you know where all the snag are really fast. I try to use the lightest jig that I can get away with and have it touch the bottom.
I haven't fish enough with adding a piece of shrimp to the jig helps or not but I think it doesn't hurt. Since, the pompano feed also by smell.
Since you guys read all the way here, here's an added secret... majority of the catch are in the morning and evening as I pointed out before but remember you can catch them all day. Morning and evening seems to be big school moving through but any other time there will be a pair of pompano moving through the bridges from time to time. Think of the bridge as a major highway that fish use to move from one place to another. That's why you'll catch all sort of random fish. The longer you fish a bridge the more you understand it and know what time the fish will be there and such. If your hand is not aching from the jigging then you haven't jig enough yet. :-p
Catch them up guys.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2016 17:34:54 GMT -5
AN INTERESTING LOOKING DOUBLE HOOK SETUP for less than lively baits. Watch "Adjustable Live Bait Fishing Rig" on YouTube youtu.be/81fGIxeiG1I
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2016 19:37:07 GMT -5
Making Your Own Sabiki Rig.An interesting twist on making and loading up a sabiki rig. Leftover Gulp pieces! youtu.be/b0rWmCWB_2I
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Post by gatorgrad on Nov 12, 2016 13:25:23 GMT -5
Difference between the tasty tablefare and the inedible trash-fish which many people mistakenly get confused between Little Tunny (aka False Albacore) and it's inedible, junk-fish cousin the Atlantic Bonito. Here is the edible version:  www.floridagofishing.com/news/2012/anglers-trash-sushi-grade-tuna.htmlMy friend who is a sushi aficionado has told me this fish is considered a prime-grade delicacy if properly handled and prepared. Even the Wikipedia article about this fish gets it wrong and incorrectly describes its suitability for table fare. If in doubt, just ice the fish and take pics and compare to the information in the florida-go-fishing article. |
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Post by detroitd on Jun 15, 2017 21:25:08 GMT -5
A Nice Tutorial On Tidal Coefficient, Solunars, Barometric Pressure: A nice explanation using the tides4fishing website. youtu.be/x9t070LsMDo |
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Post by YodaFisherman on Jun 25, 2017 18:53:59 GMT -5
Skyway Grouper Setup
I have tried many different setups and methods fishing for Gags on the Skyway, many as a result of suggestions on this forum. I may not have the hours/years experience many have, but I have learned a lot during my 2 or 3 one week long visits a year over the last 6 years.
1) Leader Strength: Some suggest to have the leader lighter than the main line to save main line when you get hung up and have to snap or cut the line. Some suggest the heaviest leader possible to protect from the sharp edges on the rocks. I have found that most times the leader is cut by the rocks, you very rarely have to cut your line as a result of snagging. So my preference is to have the leader as strong as possible, but within reason, too heavy a leader on a small hook can be a mess. I use 60 lb fluorocarbon leader if I'm using a 5/0 or 7/0 hook and 80 lb if I'm using a 9/0 hook. Since many use heavy braided line, as I now do, the leader will likely be lighter than the mainline anyway.
2) Leader Length: The most common suggestions range from 4 feet to 10 feet. My experience has shown than when the line is cut on the rocks it usually happens within the first 4 feet of the hook. Since fluorocarbon leader material is so expensive I use 6 foot leaders.
3) Hook Size: This I struggle with. Grouper have big mouths, even a 18" Gag can get a 9/0 hook in its mouth, however, I have caught a few mangrove snapper on pinfish while grouper fishing. They can't get that big hook in their mouths. I snagged a 16" Mangrove in the cheek with a 4” pinfish on a 9/0 hook once. So at the moment I use a 5/0 Gamakatsu Octopus Circle Hook.
4) Mainline strength: I have seen suggestions as high as 100 lb braid in this forum. And have seen many heated discussions, with me as one of the detractors, but there is a lot to consider here. Why use a line many times heavier that the reels max drag? Why use a line many times heavier than the rods max line rating? Sure those are only suggested ratings right? Well when I finally realized that you may need to lock the reel drag, to keep the grouper from reaching the rocks, did it dawn on me why the heavy line strength was being suggested. So, if the reel’s drag is locked the weak link is the rod, right? Now it’s my opinion that using line many times heavier than the rods ratings is overkill. The rod I currently use has a max line rating of 40 lbs. so the line I use is 65lb braid.
5) Rod Size: I have used many different rods from the Skyway piers and hooked grouper with several. The ones with the most hookups are 7’ medium heavy inshore rods, boat rods and surf rods. I like the length of the surf rods for their ability to help steer and control the fish. Sure the boat rods have the ability to horse the fish up, but I find I feel more in control with the longer rods. Also the longer rods help with lifting the fish up onto the pier if you’re not using a drop net. My current grouper rod is a 12' Penn Prevail heavy surf rod.
6) The Reel: All kinds of discussion could occur here, but I’ll keep is simple. I like conventional reels and also like lever drag systems. So not many options there; my choice is the Penn Squall 30LD.
7) Weights: I have seen many comments on the use of weights from zero to 4 oz. My experience is that free lining with no weight at all is the best way to go from the piers. Although I will on occasion use between a 2 to 4 oz. egg sinker on the mainline.
8) Terminal Tackle: This is a place many don’t consider when fishing. There are many different kinds of terminal tackle. Barrel swivels, snap swivels, rings, and even none (using line knots only). I know snap swivels are great for convenience when switching setups, (I always use them when surf fishing) but when fishing for grouper there is little need for that. I have used just a line knot and prefer that to using any kind of swivel. It works well when using monofilament mainline, but I find that line knots are not as reliable when using braid mainline. Using a swivel that is too small can cause trouble as well. Always use a swivel at least 50% stronger than the heaviest line being used. Currently I use a 100 lb barrel swivel.
So, my current Skyway grouper setup is;
12’ Penn Prevail Conventional Surf Rod
Penn Squall 30LD Reel
65’ braid mainline
100 lb. barrel swivel
6’ of 60 lb fluorocarbon leader
5/0 Gamakatsu Octopus Circle Hook
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Post by YodaFisherman on Jun 30, 2017 12:56:49 GMT -5
Skyway Grouper Tactics
I have use a number of tactics from the Skyway, some successful and some not so much. Many methods will catch them and sometimes you can hook one when not even trying. I once caught a 10” red grouper using a squid head on a bottom rig. But the point is to start using tactics that increase your odds of catching a keeper. These are the tactics I use that are the most successful.
Grouper set up:
12’ Penn Prevail Conventional Surf Rod
Penn Squall 30LD Reel
65’ braid mainline
100 lb. barrel swivel
6’ of 60 lb fluorocarbon leader
5/0 Gamakatsu Octopus Circle Hook
Bait – Live Pinfish or Grunts
Live lining the bait
When the Current is strong
I will fish whichever side the tide is moving away from the pier. On the outgoing tide I’m on the South facing side and on the incoming I’m in the North side facing the unused part of the old bridge. I will fish through the abutments of the opposing bridge sections. I prefer not to, but the tide determines the side I’m fishing on. Grouper usually don’t run laterally down the pier, they like to go straight down, so I don’t lose many by having them swimming around the abutments. Unfortunately, it does happen on occasion, especially with other species.
I will use a live baitfish free lined using only the mainline, swivel, leader and hook and will hook the bait just above the rear part of the anal fin.
Drop the bait straight down below the pier and allow the bait to swim to the bottom having the reel in free spool initially until the bait is on the bottom. This is where I like conventional reels with lever drag systems. I will then set the drag on the very first setting. On this setting the bait fish can almost pull the line out on its own. It only takes about 4 oz. of pressure to pull line off the reel.
I will then drop the tip until the line goes limp. This indicates the baitfish is on the bottom or in the structure. I will slowly lift the tip up and then slowly drop it again. Each time you do this the bait should move a little further out from the pier. When the rod tip is down and the line is tight I will pull 36 to 48” of line off the reel and lift the tip until the line it tight again. I will continue this process over and over until something happens or the bait is quite a ways off the pier.
The rock piles are about 100 yards long, so to reach the end you would do the above process almost a 100 times. Unfortunately, the further off the pier the bait gets the easier it is for it to move sideways, get into the rock and hang you up or have the resistance of the line overpower the bait and force it to the surface. So, I usually give up after about 20 to 30 cycles. This would put me about 75 to 125 feet from the pier.
Once I decide to stop letting line out I reverse the process. With the tip down, I slowly reel in about 36 to 48” of line. Then raise the tip a little and slowly drop it back down. Over and over I do this until the bait is at the surface just below me.
If the bait makes it out and back I will change it. By this time it is worn out and so tired it will not be able stay down through another cycle. I also move to another spot frequently. I have rarely had a strike on the second time through the cycle in the same spot and never on the third time.
When the current is week or non-existent
When the current is weak enough that the baitfish can swim against it, even with the hook and leader attached, the tactics are different. You can’t use the current to work the bait away from the pier. In these instances casting will be necessary.
With no weight added, I will cast the line as far as possible and let the bait fish swim to the bottom. Once I see it has stopped moving I will start slowly moving the rod tip up and down and reel in about 12 to 18” of line every other time, but giving the bait fish time to get back down onto the bottom. I will do this until the bait is right below me. I will do this process two or three times then walk to another spot. I will change the bait when I see that it’s getting weak.
If I fish several rock piles with this method I will then go back to the first spot and add a 24” mono leader, with a 2 to 4oz egg sinker between the mainline and the fluorocarbon leader. So the setup will be: mainline > 100lb swivel > 24” of 60lb mono leader with a line bead at each end and egg sinker in the middle > 100lb swivel > 6’ of 60lb fluorocarbon leader > 5/0 Gamakatsu Octopus Circle Hook. I will cast as far as possible and do the entire process again until the bait is below me and walk the pier after three casts in one spot.
If the grouper are biting, I don't hesitate putting a 6oz egg sinker on and try to get out further. But here I will only work the bait about 1/3 the way back to the pier before I retrieve the line and cast again. Also, don’t overlook fishing straight down under the bridge, I have caught a few nice ones right under my feet.
The strike and setting the hook
I’m always paying close attention to the baitfish’s attitude. You should feel the steady back and forth motion as it swims for cover. Any time you feel increased agile movement the fish is stressed and that usually means something is spooking it. This is where you need to hold on, although not every pickup has this happen. When it feels like something has picked up the bait, I drop the tip about 2 feet, then tighten the drag lever about ¾ of the way. These few seconds gives the fish time to take the bait into its mouth and turn to swim off. Once the drag is set I will raise the tip slowly until I feel pressure. As soon as the fish feels the pressure it will run and here the fun begins.
Be mindful though, some Grouper and most other species grab and run. If you’re not holding onto the rod tight enough it may be ripped from your hands and go over the rails. If a fish just takes off with the bait I quickly move the drag lever to about ¾ position, tighter if line is still being pulled off.
The fish will hook itself. I’ve learned that pulling back on the rod has resulted in less hook sets than just letting the fish do the work. But with grouper, once he’s hooked it will run for cover. You need to keep it from that cover. You need to work very hard for the first 10 to 15 seconds to get the fish out of its safety zone. You can’t fight a grouper like many fish where you give them some line and work on pulling them in a little at a time. Any chance they get to gain the security of the rocks they will. And once you’re rocked you will likely never see the fish.
So, once the battle has started I reel the line hard and fast and resist the impulse to pump the rod. I will only pump the rod if the fish is big enough that I can’t gain line just by reeling it, but I continue to turn the reel through the entire cycle of each pump. If I notice the fish is pulling the drag I will tighten it, even if I need to take it all the way to the locked position.
Lifting the fish onto the pier
After a good hard battle the fish should be below you and you need to get it up onto the pier. Small grouper can just be reeled and lifted up, but the larger ones take some technique to get over the rails. I will reel the line tight with the rod tip pointing straight down to the fish and reel as tight as possible. I will then lift hard and fast to swing the fish up and over the rails. But be mindful that you only want to lift the fish just enough to clear the rails. The higher the fish goes the harder it will hit the road and bruise the meat. This actually takes some practice.
I always have a drop net with me. They are a useful tool, and in some cases the fish are too big to just lift. But with the current, using a drop net can be a pain and almost impossible if you are by yourself. So I lift the fish with the rod if possible.
If all goes well you should have several good meals of grouper and have some tired arms. But isn’t that what fishing is all about.
Other fish caught with this technique
While using this process on the Skyway I have also caught other fish; Tarpon, Cobia, Spanish Mackerel, Rays, Sharks and Mangrove Snapper. And I’m sure Bull Reds and large Black Drum would hit it as well.
Also, be mindful of the Dolphin. They are a bane of many a fisherman and love to steel your baitfish. It’s usually easy to tell when a Dolphin has your bait. There’s nothing like having a speedy 100lb plus mammal on your line. They know exactly what they are doing and rarely get hooked. Most of the time they pull until the fish rips off the hook. You can get them to drop the bait by releasing the bail, without the pressure they can’s tear the bait off the hook and just let go. But once they hit it the bait is shot anyway.
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Post by georgekingfish on Dec 27, 2017 23:06:48 GMT -5
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Post by Mackerelman on May 26, 2020 21:13:41 GMT -5
NORTH PIER & SOUTH PIER DEPTH CHARTS NS Depth Chart SS Depth Chart 
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Post by Mackerelman on Sept 10, 2021 18:14:48 GMT -5
Pompano, African Pompano & Permit Comparisons
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